Council of Fashion Designers of America

Council of Fashion Designers of America
AbbreviationCFDA
Formation1962; 62 years ago (1962)
FounderEleanor Lambert
TypeTrade association
Legal statusNonprofit organization
PurposeTo strengthen the impact of American fashion in the global economy
Location
FieldsFashion
Membership484[1] (2019)
Chairman
Thom Browne
CEO
Steven Kolb
Websitecfda.com

The Council of Fashion Designers of America, Inc. (CFDA), founded in 1962 by publicist Eleanor Lambert,[2] and headquartered in Manhattan, is a not-for-profit trade association comprising a membership of over 450 American fashion and accessory designers. The organization promotes American designers' participation in the global economy.

In addition to hosting the annual CFDA Fashion Awards, the organization develops future American design talent through scholarships and resources in high schools, colleges, and postgraduate schools. The CFDA also provides funding and business opportunities for working designers. Through the CFDA Foundation, the organization engages in various charitable activities.

History

[edit]

The first president of the CFDA was Sydney Wragge[3] (1962–1965). Steven Kolb has been the CEO since 2006. As of January 2023, Thom Browne is the group's chairman; he follows Tom Ford, who served as chairman for three years. Additionally, Diane von Furstenberg served as chairman for 13 years from 2006 until 2019.[4]

These people founded the CFDA in 1962:

CFDA Fashion Awards

[edit]

The CFDA Fashion Awards were founded in 1980 with the first awards given in 1981. They honor and showcase excellence in fashion design.[8] The CFDA Fashion Awards were created by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. They have been sometimes referred to as "the Oscars of fashion".[9][10] Prior to the establishment of the CFDA Awards, the Coty Awards fulfilled a similar role until they ended in 1985, with the final Coty Awards bestowed in September 1984.[11][12] In 1997, the CFDA Fashion Awards began including emerging designers.[13][14]

Nominations are submitted by the Fashion Guild, a group of over 1,500 CFDA members including fashion editors, retailers, and stylists.[15] Award winners are determined by vote and announced at an annual black tie event held in Manhattan. Award winners receive a trophy made by the New York firm Society Awards.[16]

For the 2022 and 2023 editions, Amazon Fashion sponsored the event.[17][18]

1980s

[edit]

The CFDA Awards have been given out since 1981.[19] The 1981 awards were given out at the first annual CFDA awards ceremony on January 14, 1982 at a dinner in the New York Public Library.[20][21] The winners had been announced two months before the ceremony[20] which was originally scheduled for a television extravaganza in the fall of 1981.[21] CFDA president Bill Blass had set off controversy when he announced that all of the nominees will be named winners to avoid televising designers as they lose awards.[21][22] In response, nominee Geoffrey Beene rejected the award and said, "The industry needs a major award for its merit, not its emotion.”[22]

Under the new CFDA president Perry Ellis, the 1984 CFDA awards in January 1985 had a broadened set of awards that included awards for MTV, Nike billboards, and Details magazine.[23][24][25] According to Donna Karan, who headed the awards committee, "We wanted these awards to go beyond designers. It`s all about creativity and the whole scope of fashion."[24] After the Coty Awards were discontinued 1985, the CFDA Awards were seen as the top honors in the fashion industry[23][26][20] with the wider variety of awards making the event more interesting and modern.[23][27] James Galanos received the first CFDA "Lifetime Achievement Award" in 1984,[24] which the CFDA named after Geoffrey Beene.[28] At the 1984 awards, Bill Blass presented the "Eugenia Sheppard fashion award" to Earl Blackwell and said it would be given annually "for outstanding contribution to fashion journalism."[25] However, Women's Wear Daily later reported that Etta Froio, editor of Women's Wear Daily and W, won the first "Eugenia Sheppard award" in 1986.[29]

The CFDA Awards were staged at the New York Public Library until they moved to the Metropolitan Museum of Art for the 1986 awards in January 1987.[20][27][30] The CFDA's first "Perry Ellis Award" for new fashion talent was given to David Cameron in 1986, the award was named after the former council president who died that year.[30][31][32]

CFDA Fashion Award winners
Year Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award Womenswear Designer Menswear Designer Accessory Designer Emerging Talent Award International Award Notes
1981 none Geoffrey Beene; Perry Ellis; Calvin Klein (tie) Jhane Barnes; Ralph Lauren; Alexander Julian (tie) Barry Kieselstein-Cord (jewelry); Alex Mate and Lee Brooks (costume jewelry); Nancy Knox (men's shoes) (special awards for each) none Yves Saint Laurent (worldwide influence/International Fashion Award) [21][33]
1982 none Norma Kamali Perry Ellis none none Karl Lagerfeld for Chloé (outstanding designer outside the U.S.) [34][35]
1983 none Calvin Klein Perry Ellis Patricia Underwood (hats) none Issey Miyake; Giorgio Armani [36]
1984 James Galanos none none none Stephen Sprouse (best new designer) none [24][37]
1985 Katharine Hepburn; Alexander Liberman Donna Karan (outstanding designer of the year); Geoffrey Beene; Liz Claiborne; Norma Kamali (outstanding video presentations) Robert Lee Morris (jewelry); Ray-Ban (sunglasses) none none [38][26]
1986 Bill Blass; Marlene Dietrich Geoffrey Beene (outstanding American designer of the year); Donna Karan ("impact on the total look of fashion"); Ralph Lauren (retailer of the year) none David Cameron Christian Lacroix for Patou [31][39][40]
1987 Giorgio Armani Ronaldus Shamask Marc Jacobs
1988 Richard Avedon; Nancy Reagan Bill Robinson
1989 Oscar de la Renta Isaac Mizrahi Joseph Abboud [41]

Other awards:

1990s

[edit]

Reportedly the CFDA's first "International Award" was given to Gianni Versace in 1992[45][46] although it was previously reported that Christian Lacroix received the CFDA's first international award in 1986[31][40] and that Yves Saint Laurent received a CFDA international award in 1981.[21][33] Princess Diana attended the awards in January 1995 to present a special award to her friend Elizabeth Tilberis, the British-born Editor-in-Chief of Harper's Bazaar.[47][48][49]

In 1997, for the first time, the CFDA did not release all of the award winners before the awards ceremony. The nominees of the "Perry Ellis Awards" were announced at a press conference in November 1997 but the winners were not named until the February 1998 awards ceremony.[50][51] In 1999, the date of the event was changed from January to June[20] when the awards were televised for the first time, as the 18th Annual American Fashion Awards on E! Entertainment Television, marking the beginning of a five-year partnership with General Motors.[52][53]

CFDA Fashion Award winners
Year Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award Womenswear Designer Menswear Designer Accessory Designer Perry Ellis Award for New Talent International Award Notes
1990 Martha Graham Donna Karan Joseph Abboud Manolo Blahnik Christian Francis Roth none [54]
1991 Ralph Lauren Isaac Mizrahi Roger Forsythe for Perry Ellis Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel Todd Oldham none [55][56][57]
1992 Pauline Trigère Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis Donna Karan Chrome Hearts Anna Sui Gianni Versace ( Italy) [45][46]
1993 Judith Leiber and Polly Allen Mellen Calvin Klein Calvin Klein none Richard Tyler (womenswear); John Bartlett (menswear) Prada (accessories) ( Italy) [58][59][60]
1994 Carrie Donovan, Bernadine Morris, and Nonnie Moore Richard Tyler none Robert Lee Morris (womenswear); Gene Meyer (menswear) Victor Alfaro and Cynthia Rowley (tie) (womenswear); Robert Massimo Freda (menswear) none [49][32][61]
1995 Hubert de Givenchy Ralph Lauren Tommy Hilfiger Hush Puppies Marie-Anne Oudejans for Tocca (womenswear); Richard Tyler and Richard Edwards (by Richard Bengtsson and Edward Pavlick) (tie) (menswear); Kate Spade (accessories) Tom Ford for Gucci [62][32]
1996 Arnold Scaasi Donna Karan Ralph Lauren Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co Daryl Kerrigan for Daryl K (womenswear); Gene Meyer (menswear); Kari Sigerson and Miranda Morrison for Sigerson Morrison (accessories) Helmut Lang ( Austria) [63][64]
1997 Geoffrey Beene Marc Jacobs John Bartlett Kate Spade Narciso Rodriguez (womenswear); Sandy Dalal (menswear) John Galliano

( Great Britain) for Dior

[50][51]
1999 Yves Saint Laurent Michael Kors Calvin Klein Marc Jacobs Josh Patner and Bryan Bradley for Tuleh (womenswear); Matt Nye (menswear); Tony Valentine (accessories) Yohji Yamamoto

( Japan)

[53]

Other awards:

2000s

[edit]

The CFDA's first "Fashion Icon Award" was given to American socialite C.Z. Guest in 2002.[72][73] The award was given to Nicole Kidman in 2003[74] and to Sarah Jessica Parker in 2004.[75][76] The CFDA decided to forgo the award in 2005, and instead gave the "Award for Fashion Influence" to Kate Moss.[76][77] In 2002, the CFDA Fashion Awards also began a 17-year partnership with Swarovski that ended in 2019.[20][78][79] In 2003, the awards for new designer talent, formerly known as the "Perry Ellis Awards," were renamed "Swarovski’s Perry Ellis Awards" and included a monetary prize for the first time to reflect the sponsorship.[80][32]

CFDA Fashion Award winners
Year Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award Womenswear Designer Menswear Designer Accessory Designer Emerging Talent Award International Award Notes
2000 Valentino Oscar de la Renta Helmut Lang Richard Lambertson & John Truex for Lambertson Truex Miguel Adrover (womenswear), John Varvatos (menswear), Dean Harris (accessories) Jean-Paul Gaultier

( France)

[81][82]
2001 Calvin Klein Tom Ford John Varvatos Reed Krakoff for Coach Daphne Gutierrez and Nicole Noselli for Bruce (womenswear), William Reid (menswear), Edmundo Castillo (accessories) Nicolas Ghesquiere

( France) for Balenciaga

[83]
2002 Karl Lagerfeld and Grace Coddington Narciso Rodriguez Marc Jacobs Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent Rick Owens Hedi Slimane

( France) for Dior Homme

[72]
2003 Anna Wintour Narciso Rodriguez Michael Kors Marc Jacobs Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough for Proenza Schouler Alexander McQueen

( Great Britain)

[74][84]
2004 Donna Karan Carolina Herrera Sean Combs for Sean John Reed Krakoff for Coach Zac Posen (ready-to-wear), Eugenia Kim (accessories) Miuccia Prada

( Italy)

[85][75]
2005 Diane von Fürstenberg Vera Wang John Varvatos Marc Jacobs Derek Lam (womenswear), Alexandre Plokhov for Cloak (menswear), Anthony Camargo and Nak Armstrong for Anthony Nak (accessories) Alber Elbaz

( Israel) for Lanvin

[76][77]
2006 Stan Herman Francisco Costa

for Calvin Klein

Thom Browne Tom Binns Doo-Ri Chung (womenswear) and Jeff Halmos, Josia Lamberto-Egan, Sam Shipley, & John Whitledge for Trovata (menswear), Devi Kroell (accessories) Olivier Theyskens

( Belgium) for Rochas

[86][87]
2007 Robert Lee Morris Oscar de la Renta, and Lazaro Hernandez & Jack McCollough for Proenza Schouler Ralph Lauren (also awarded the American Fashion Legend Award) Derek Lam Phillip Lim (womenswear), David Neville & Marcus Wainwright for Rag & Bone (menswear), Jessie Randall for Loeffler Randall (accessories) Pierre Cardin

( France)

[88][89][90]
2008 Carolina Herrera Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein Tom Ford Tory Burch Kate and Laura Mulleavy for Rodarte (womenswear); Scott Sternberg for Band of Outsiders (menswear); Philip Crangi (accessories) Dries van Noten

( Belgium)

[91]
2009 Anna Sui Kate & Laura Mulleavy for Rodarte Scott Sternberg for Band of Outsiders and Italo Zucchelli for Calvin Klein Collection Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough for Proenza Schouler Alexander Wang (womenswear); Tim Hamilton (menswear); Justin Giunta for Subversive Jewelry (accessories) Marc Jacobs

( United States) for Louis Vuitton

[92][93]

2010s

[edit]
CFDA Fashion Award winners
Year Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award Womenswear Designer Menswear Designer Accessory Designer Emerging Talent Award International Award Fashion Icon Notes
2010 Michael Kors Marc Jacobs Marcus Wainwright and David Neville for Rag & Bone Alexis Bittar Jason Wu (womenswear); Richard Chai (menswear); Alexander Wang (accessories) Christopher Bailey

( Great Britain) for Burberry

Iman [94]
2011 Marc Jacobs Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough for Proenza Schouler Michael Bastian Alexander Wang Prabal Gurung (womenswear); Robert Geller (menswear); Eddie Borgo (accessories) Phoebe Philo

( Great Britain) for Céline

Lady Gaga [95][96]
2012 Tommy Hilfiger Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row Billy Reid Reed Krakoff Joseph Altuzarra (womenswear); Phillip Lim (menswear); Tabitha Simmons (accessories) Rei Kawakubo

( Japan) for Comme des Garçons

Johnny Depp [97][98]
2013 Vera Wang Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough for Proenza Schouler Thom Browne Phillip Lim Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis for Suno (womenswear); Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne for Public School (menswear); Pamela Love (accessories) Riccardo Tisci

( Italy) for Givenchy

[99][100]
2014 Tom Ford Joseph Altuzarra Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne for Public School Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters for Creatures of the Wind (womenswear); Tim Coppens (menswear); Irene Neuwirth (accessories) Raf Simons

( Belgium) for Dior

Rihanna [101][102][103][104]
2015 Betsey Johnson Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row Tom Ford Tabitha Simmons Rosie Assoulin (womenswear); Shayne Oliver for Hood by Air (menswear); Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel for Mansur Gavriel (accessories) Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli

( Italy) for Valentino

Pharrell Williams [105][106][107][108]
2016 Norma Kamali Marc Jacobs Thom Browne Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel for Mansur Gavriel Brandon Maxwell (womenswear); Alex Orley, Matthew Orley, and Samantha Orley (menswear); Paul Andrew (accessories) Alessandro Michele

( Italy) for Gucci

Beyoncé [109][110][111][112]
2017 Rick Owens Raf Simons for Calvin Klein Raf Simons for Calvin Klein Stuart Vevers for Coach Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia for Monse Demna Gvasalia

( Georgia) for Vetements and Balenciaga

Franca Sozzani ( posthumous) [113][114][115]
2018 Narciso Rodriguez Raf Simons for Calvin Klein Supreme Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row Sander Lak for Sies Marjan Donatella Versace

( Italy)

Naomi Cambell [116][117][118][119]
2019 Bob Mackie Brandon Maxwell Rick Owens Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row Emily Adams Bode for Bode Sarah Burton

( Great Britain) for Alexander McQueen

Jennifer Lopez [120][121][122][123]

2020s

[edit]
CFDA Fashion Award winners
Year Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award Womenswear Designer Menswear Designer Accessory Designer Emerging Talent Award International Award Fashion Icon Notes
2023 Maria Cornejo Catherine Holstein for Khaite Willy Chavarria Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row Diotima Jonathan Anderson ( Great Britain) for JW Anderson and Loewe Serena Williams [124][125]

Programs

[edit]

CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund

[edit]

2010s Finalists and Winners

[edit]

2023 Return to Old Format

  • 2023: Kim Shui; Kozaburo Akasaka of Kozaburo; Melitta Baumeister (Winner);[5] Sami Miro of Sami Miro Vintage; Fletcher Kasell and Tanner Richie of Tanner Fletcher; Everard Best and Téla D’Amore of Who Decides War; and Henry Zankov of Zankov (Runner Up).[5]

Tiffany & Co. x CFDA Jewelry Designer Award

[edit]

Established in 2024, the CFDA partners with Tiffany & Co. for the stated purpose of recognizing and uplifting outstanding American jewelry designers who are committed to driving inclusivity with the design industry. Awarded recipients are selected by a committee of industry experts. [133]

2020s Finalists

  • 2024: Angie Marei, David Perry, Ian Delucca, Jameel Mohammed, Hi Vu, Maggi Simpkins, Malyia McNaughton, Marvin Linares, Pamela Zamore, Symoné Currie [134]

CFDA {FASHION INCUBATOR} program

[edit]

The 4.0 class (2016–2018) of the {FASHION INCUBATOR} includes Alexandra Alvarez of Alix, Aurora James of Brother Vellies, Charles Youssef, Daniel DuGoff of Ddugoff, Tim Joo and Dan Joo of Haerfest, Jason Alkire and Julie Alkire of Haus Alkire, Ji Oh, Katie deGuzman and Michael Miller of K/ller Collection, Thaddeus O’Neil, and Molly Yestadt of Yestadt Millinery.[135]

Fashion Manufacturing Initiative

[edit]

The Fashion Manufacturing Initiative (FMI) is an investment fund to help revitalize New York City's garment industry. The program offers matching financial grants to New York City's fashion manufacturing production facilities.

In March 2018, the CFDA and NYCA announced that the following seven production facilities would receive a combined total of $480,000 in the fifth round of FMI grants: Atelier Amelia, Sunrise Studio, In Style USA, Mudo Fashion, New York Embroidery Studio, Season Wash, and Werkstatt.[136]

Fashion Targets Breast Cancer

[edit]

Fashion Targets Breast Cancer® (FTBC), a charitable initiative of the CFDA/CFDA Foundation, seeks to raise public awareness and funds for the breast cancer cause.

The Fashion Targets Breast Cancer name and symbol were created by Ralph Lauren and subsequently entrusted to the CFDA Foundation. FTBC was first presented in the U.S. in the spring of 1994 during New York Fashion Week, and was formally launched in September 1994 at a special White House reception hosted by then-First Lady Hillary Clinton. During this initial campaign, 400,000 FTBC shirts were sold, raising $2 million to benefit the Nina Hyde Center for Breast Health at the Lombardi Cancer Center at Georgetown University Medical Center.[137]

Since 2011, the council has led an annual campaign to promote the initiative and partners with well known fashion icons. In 2017, Fabletics partnered with Fashion Targets Breast Cancer to produce an activewear collection. A portion of all sales for the collection would be donated to target breast cancer screening and treatment.[138][139]

Publications

[edit]

The CFDA has published the following books, listed in order by publish date:

  • American Fashion Home
  • American Travel
  • Scheips, Charlie (2007). American Fashion. Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Assouline Publishing. ISBN 978-2759401611.
  • Hastreiter, Kim; Beene, Geoffrey (2008). Geoffrey Beene: An American Fashion Rebel. Assouline Publishing. ISBN 9782759402663.
  • Pratts Price, Candy; Glasscock, Jessica; Tavee, Art (2008). American Fashion Accessories. Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Assouline Publishing. ISBN 9782759402861.
  • Marsh, Lisa; Stewart, Martha (2009). American Fashion Cookbook. Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Assouline Publisher. ISBN 9782759404056.
  • Bryan, Robert E. (2009). American Fashion Menswear. Assouline Publishing. ISBN 9782759404094.
  • Suqi, Rima A. (2010). American Fashion Designers at Home. Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Assouline Publishing. ISBN 9782759404711.
  • Mears, Patricia (2012). IMPACT: 50 Years of the CFDA. Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Harry N. Abrams. ISBN 978-1419702310.
  • Von Furstenberg, Diane; Alba, Jessica (2014). The Pursuit of Style: Advice and Musings from America's Top Fashion Designers. Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Harry N. Abrams. ISBN 978-1419706219.
  • Systrom, Kevin; Kolb, Steven (2015). Designers on Instagram: #fashion. Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Harry N. Abrams. ISBN 978-1419715587.
  • Moore, Booth (2018). American Runway: 75 Years of Fashion and the Front Row. Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Harry N. Abrams. ISBN 978-1419726484.

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[edit]
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