French
DeutschLaura Rogora
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| Nationality | Italian | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | April 28, 2001 Rome, Italy | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional rock climber | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 152 cm (5 ft 0 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 43 kg (95 lb) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Medal record
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| Updated on 30 July 2023 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Laura Rogora (born 28 April 2001) is an Italian rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and in competition climbing (and competition lead climbing in particular). In 2021, she became the third-ever female climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b)-graded sport climbing route, with her ascent of Erebor in Italy.
Climbing career
[edit]Competition climbing
[edit]In 2019, Rogora qualified to compete at the 2020 Summer Olympic Games,[1] by finishing second in lead climbing at the IFSC Climbing European Championships[2] and won 3 of 4 possible gold medals at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships, coming first in lead climbing, bouldering and the combined categories in the Junior age group.[3]
She competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Women's combined Olympic climbing.[4][5]
Sport climbing
[edit]In 2015, aged 14, she became the second youngest climber to redpoint a 9a (5.14d)–graded sport climbing route. In 2021, she became the third-ever female in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b)-graded sport route.[6]
In 2023, Rogora made the first female ascent (and, as it was a free ascent, the first female free ascent) of the Lapsus, a 9a+ (5.15a)–graded sport climbing route in Italy.[7]
Notable ascents
[edit]Redpointed routes
[edit]- 9b (5.15b)
- Erebor, Italy, October 2021 (bolted and first ascended by Stefano Ghisolfi); only third-ever woman in history to climb a 9b route.
- 9a+ (5.15a)
- Lapsus, Italy, November 2023 (First female ascent of the route)[7]
- Ali Hulk Sit Extension Total, Rodellar, Spain, July 2020 (was once considered potential 9b)[8][9]
- Pure Dreaming Plus, Arco, Italy, 30 May 2020 (First female ascent and first repeat of the route, established by Adam Ondra)[10]
- The Bow, Arco, Italy, November 2020[11]
- 9a (5.14d)
- 8c+/9a (5.14c/5.14d)
- Pal Norte, Margalef, Spain, December 2019
- Underground, Massone, Italy, June 2020
- 8c+ (5.14c)
- Joe Blau, Oliana, Spain, January 2017
- Hulk Extension Total, Rodellar, Spain, July 2020
- 8c (5.14b)
- Ciccio Formaggio, Grotta dell’Aerenauta, Sperlonga, Italy, December 2014 (her first 8c at age 13).
- Il Corvo, Ferentillo, Italy, April 2015
- Wallstreet, Frankenjura, Germany, August 2016
First ascents
[edit]- Tomorrowland extension, 8c+/9a (5.14c/5.14d), Cueva di Collepardo, November 2016
- Supercrack, 8c+/9a (5.14c/5.14d), Cueva di Collepardo, December 2016
- La Gasparata, 8c+/9a (5.14c/5.14d), Cueva di Collepardo, January 2017
- Ercole, 8c+ (5.14c), Cueva di Collepardo, March 2017
- It segid narg, 8c+ (5.14c), Grotta dell'Arenauta Sperlonga, December 2017
- Sitting Bull, 8c+/9a (5.14c/5.14d), Cueva di Collepardo, April 2018
- Rèveille-toi, 9a (5.14d), Cueva di Collepardo, June 2019
- 8b+ (5.14a)
- Ixeia, Rodellar, Spain, July 2020
- L-mens, Montsant, Spain, January 2020
Competition climbing highlights
[edit]IFSC Olympic qualifying
[edit]- IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019
- Women combined: 8th (qualified)
- 2020 IFSC Climbing World Cup (Briançon)
- Women lead: 1st
- 2019 IFSC Climbing European Championships (Edinburgh)
- Women lead: 2nd
- 2019 IFSC Youth World Championships (Arco)
- Female Youth Juniors combined: 1st
- Female Youth Juniors boulder: 1st
- Female Youth Juniors lead: 1st
- 2018 IFSC Youth World Championships (Moscow)
- Female Youth A boulder: 1st
- Female Youth A lead: 6th
- 2017 IFSC Youth World Championships (Innsbruck)
- Female Youth A combined: 6th
- Female Youth A boulder: 4th
- Female Youth A combined: 5th
European Youth Championships
[edit]- 2017 European Youth Championships (Lead & Speed) (Perm)
- Female Youth A lead: 4th
See also
[edit]- List of grade milestones in rock climbing
- History of rock climbing
- Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals
References
[edit]- ^ "SIX WOMEN QUALIFY FOR OLYMPICS IN TOULOUSE". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 1 December 2019. Retrieved 2020-01-13.
- ^ "Lučka Rakovec and Adam Ondra crowned European Climbing Champions in Edinburgh". Planet Mountain. 6 October 2019. Retrieved 2020-01-13.
- ^ "IFSC YOUTH WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS - ARCO (ITA) 2019". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 31 August 2019. Retrieved 2020-01-13.
- ^ "Laura Rogora, arrampicando verso Tokyo". VanityFair.it (in Italian). 2021-04-30. Retrieved 2021-09-25.
- ^ "Sport Climbing ROGORA Laura - Tokyo 2020 Olympics". olympics.com. Retrieved 2021-09-25.
- ^ "Fifteen-Year-Old Laura Rogora Sends Joe-Cita (5.14d)". Rock & Ice. 28 February 2017. Retrieved 2020-01-13.
- ^ a b "Laura Rogora makes first female ascent of Lapsus (9a+) at Andonno". PlanetMountain.com.
- ^ Climber News. "Laura Rogora Second Woman To Climb 9b "Ali Hulk Sit Extension Total"". Climber News.
- ^ "Ali Hulk extensión total sit start 9a+ (b) by Alex Garriga". 8a.nu. 23 August 2021. Retrieved 21 January 2022.
- ^ "Pure Dreaming Plus 9a+ by Laura Rogora (18)". www.8a.nu. 1 June 2020. Retrieved 2020-06-01.
- ^ "Laura Rogora Sends The Bow 5.15a". Retrieved 2020-11-25.
External links
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