Sotterley

This article is about the village in England. For the National Historic Landmark and plantation house in Hollywood, Maryland, United States, see Sotterley (Hollywood, Maryland).

Sotterley
Sotterley cemetery chapel
Sotterley is located in Suffolk
Sotterley
Sotterley
Location within Suffolk
Area6 km2 (2.3 sq mi) [1]
Population113 (2011)[1]
• Density19/km2 (49/sq mi)
OS grid referenceTM454845
District
Shire county
Region
CountryEngland
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
Post townBeccles
Postcode districtNR34
Dialling code01502
UK Parliament
List of places
UK
England
Suffolk
52°24′04″N 1°36′36″E / 52.401°N 1.610°E / 52.401; 1.610

Sotterley, originally Southern-lea from its situation south of the river,[2] is a village and civil parish in the East Suffolk district, in the English county of Suffolk, located approximately 4 miles (6 km) south-east of Beccles and 1.5 miles (2 km) east of Willingham St Mary and Shadingfield. The parish is primarily agricultural with a dispersed population of 113 at the 2011 census.[1][3][4] The parish council operates to administer jointly the parishes of Shadingfield, Willingham St Mary, Sotterley and Ellough.[5]

Sotterley Hall remains at the centre of the parish which now has very few basic services.[6] A saw mill operates in the village,[7] often making use of wood from the 160 hectares (400 acres) of mixed woodland managed by the Sotterley estate.[8]

History

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At the Domesday Survey in 1086 Sotterley was known as Soterlega and was part of the estate of Earl Hugh of Chester in Wangford Hundred.[2][9] The village had a population of about 21 households and was held by Mundred the Sheriff who also held the lost village of Croscroft in Wangford Hundred.[10][11]

Sotterley was held by Roger de Soterley in 1242[12] and continued in the family until about 1470 when it was confiscated due to the family's involvement in a rebellion led by the Earl of Warwick during the Wars of the Roses.[2][12] Edward IV then gave the manor to Thomas Playters.[2][12] A stained glass window in Sotterley Church commemorated the death of Thomas Playters in 1479.[2][13]

A descendant, also called Thomas, was High Sheriff of Suffolk in 1606 at which time the estate was valued at £2000 per annum and was the last Baron created by King James I in August 1623.[2] In 1642 Playters' son, Sir William Playters was Member of Parliament for Oxford and Vice Admiral of Suffolk.[2] During the Civil War Sir Lionel Playters was rector of Uggeshall and Sotterley. John Walker in chronicling the sufferings of the clergy records that when 'rebels brake open the stable doors and stole two horses' from the parsonage he challenged them, whereupon one said 'Pistoll the Parson' and two pistols were discharged at him.[2]

In 1744 Sotterley manor was sold to Miles Barne, the son of a London merchant, who rebuilt Sotterley Hall following a fire.[2][12] The parish was enclosed in 1796 leaving his son Miles Barne, with 1,085 acres (4.39 km2; 1.695 sq mi), as the largest landholder.[2] The Barne family still owns the house.[14] Notable members of the Barne family to have lived at Sotterley include Frederick Barne, M.P. for the rotten borough of Dunwich at the time of the 1832 Reform Act,[15] his son Frederick St John Newdigate Barne, M.P. for East Suffolk from 1876 to 1885 and his son Michael Barne, Royal Navy officer and the last surviving member of the 1901–04 Discovery Expedition to Antarctica.

Geography

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Sotterley lies on an area of clay plateau in a wider area averaging between 20 and 25 metres above sea level. The underlying rock is crag-sand with overlying glacial till deposits and clay soils.[3] The landscape is mainly arable with Sotterley Park and its associated woodland providing the main variation. The village is dispersed around a crossroads with a road pattern of unlit lanes which is largely unchanged from that seen on Hodgkinson's map of 1783.[3]

The census of 1801 records Sotterley had a population of 254 inhabitants.[16] The population remained reasonably steady throughout the 19th century and stood at 221 in 1901, at which time the village school had an average attendance of 80 children.[16][17] From the 1920s onwards, the population began to decline more quickly and stood at 142 by the census of 1961.[16] The 2011 census recorded the population of the parish as 113, a reduction of seven since the census of 2001.[4]

The village has very limited basic services today. The public house, the Falcon, closed during the 20th century.[17][18] Regional Cycle Route 31, from Reedham to Southwold, passes through the village.[19] Sotterley school, which was built in 1873 to replace a parochial school built in 1840 and supported by charitable contributions, closed in 1971.[20][21][22][23] Children now attend primary school in Brampton and high school in Beccles.

Sotterley Hall and estate

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Sotterley Hall

Sotterley Estate is centred on a Georgian mansion house built in 1744, Sotterley Hall, overlooking a lake.[2] The hall is a Grade I listed building and is H-shaped with two wings and a central facade with nine windows.[21][24] A number of associated buildings close to the hall, including stables, a water tower and cowsheds, are grade II listed buildings.[25]

The estate surrounding the house, Sotterley Park, was laid out in the 18th century and includes some ancient semi-natural woodland including pollarded oak trees and trees of significant size and age.[26][27] It is believed to have previously been a medieval deer park.[26] The majority of the estate is a Site of Special Scientific Interest of 121 hectares (300 acres). The park is particularly important in that the trees "support the richest epiphytic Lichen flora in East Anglia"[26] with 92 species of lichen and 14 of bryophytes.[26]

The estate is managed with a mixture of agricultural, woodland and field sports use. A 12-mile (19 km) horse trail is available on land around the estate and village.[28] The estate has been used as a film and TV location.[29]

Churches

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Church of St Margaret

The parish church, a Grade I listed building with many medieval elements,[30] is located on the Sotterley estate and is dedicated to St Margaret. Access by vehicle is limited to the times of services.[13][31] The church has more monumental brasses than any other in Suffolk, as well as medieval glasswork[13][32] and a carved oak rood screen.[21][13] Kelly's directory of 1900 notes that the church register held at the time dated from 1547.[17] The roll of honour in the church records that 15 men from Sotterley died during World War I, including two Barnes.[13]

The parish was consolidated in 1873 with the neighbouring parish of Willingham St Mary which had lacked a church for many years.[17]

An unusual octagonal cemetery chapel and cemetery were established outside the estate in about 1883.[33][34] The brick-built chapel is a Grade II listed building which may have been designed by Sir Arthur Blomfield. Each face of the building has a gothic window.[34] The chapel was threatened with demolition but is now owned by the parish council[33] and restoration was begun in 2007 by the Sotterley Chapel Preservation Trust.[31][33]

References

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  1. ^ a b c Village profile: Sotterley, East Suffolk District Council, 2019. Retrieved 2021-02-10.
  2. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k Suckling, A.I., (1846). 'Sotterley', in The History and Antiquities of the County of Suffolk, 2 vols (W.S. Cowell, Ipswich 1846), I, pp. 81–96 (British History Online). Retrieved 2011-04-06.
  3. ^ a b c 'Sotterley and Benacre plateau', Waveney District landscape character assessment pp.191–195, Waveney District Council, April 2008. Retrieved 2011-04-18. (Archived, 2011-07-19.)
  4. ^ a b A profile of Waveney[permanent dead link‍], Waveney District Council, February 2011. Retrieved 2011-04-18.
  5. ^ Shadingfield, Sotterley, Willingham and Ellough Parish Council Website, 2021. Retrieved 2021-02-10.
  6. ^ Shadingfield, Sotterley, Willingham & Ellough, Healthy Suffolk, Suffolk County Council, 2016. Retrieved 2020-02-10.
  7. ^ The Sawmill, Sotterley Estate. Retrieved 2009-04-19. (Archived, 2012-03-22.)
  8. ^ Woodlands, Sotterley Estate. Retrieved 2009-04-19. (Archived, 2012-03-22.)
  9. ^ Sotterley, The Domesday Book online. Retrieved 2011-04-18.
  10. ^ Sotterley, Open Domesday. Retrieved 2021-02-19.
  11. ^ Croscroft, Open Domesday. Retrieved 2021-02-10.
  12. ^ a b c d Page, A. (1844). 'Satterley Parish', Topographical and genealogical, The County of Suffolk. (Available online. Retrieved 2011-04-06.)
  13. ^ a b c d e St Margaret, Sotterley, The Suffolk Churches site. Retrieved 2009-04-19
  14. ^ Lake work benefits Beccles newts, BBC news website, 2009-09-15. Retrieved 2011-04-06.
  15. ^ Watson J (1815) The treble almanack for the year 1815 Dublin: Authority. (Available online. Retrieved 2011-04-06.)
  16. ^ a b c Sotterley CP/AP: Historical statistics – Population, Vision of Britain. Retrieved 2011-04-18.
  17. ^ a b c d 'Sotterley', Kelly's directory of Suffolk, 1900, p. 306. London: Kelly's Directories Limited.
  18. ^ Sotterley: Falcon, Suffolk Pubs, Campaign for Real Ale. Retrieved 2011-04-18.
  19. ^ Beccles and Southwold linked by new cycle route, Eastern Daily Press, 2011-05-22. Retrieved 2011-05-22.
  20. ^ White W (1855) 'Sotterley', History, Gazetteer & Directory of Suffolk, 1855, pp.673–674. Sheffield: Robert Leader.
  21. ^ a b c 'Sotterley', Kelly's Directory of Cambridgeshire, Norfolk and Suffolk, 1892, p.1208. London: Kelly and Co.
  22. ^ 'Sotterley', The post office directory of Cambridge, Norfolk and Suffolk, 1869, p.898. London: Kelly and Co.
  23. ^ Unseen archive, Archant Newspapers
  24. ^ Sotterley Hall, British Listed Buildings. Retrieved 2011-04-06.
  25. ^ Listed Buildings in Sotterley, Suffolk, England, British Listed Buildings. Retrieved 2011-04-18.
  26. ^ a b c d Sotterley Park: SSSI citation, Natural England. Retrieved 2011-04-17.
  27. ^ South Norfolk and High Suffolk Claylands, Natural England. Retrieved 2011-04-17.
  28. ^ Equestrian, Sotterley Estate. Retrieved 2011-04-18.
  29. ^ Film/TV Location, Sotterley Estate. Retrieved 2011-04-18. (Archived, 2012-03-22.)
  30. ^ Church of St Margaret, Sotterley, British Listed Buildings. Retrieved 2011-04-06.
  31. ^ a b Sotterley, Hundred River Benefice. Retrieved 2011-04-18. (Archived, 2012-03-22.)
  32. ^ St Margaret's Church, Sotterley Estate. Retrieved 2011-04-18. (Archived, 2012-03-22)
  33. ^ a b c Sotterley Chapel, Parish Council Website, 2009. Retrieved 2009-04-19.
  34. ^ a b Sotterley Cemetery Memorial Chapel, Sotterley, British Listed Buildings. Retrieved 2011-04-06.

Further reading

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  • Victoria County History of Suffolk, Vol. I (ed. W. Page). London: Constable, 1907 (Reissued by the Institute of Historical Research, 1975)
  • A. G. Mathews (1948) Walker Revised, being a revision of John Walker's "Sufferings of the Clergy"
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