Victor Albisu

Victor Albisu
Albisu stirs a pot of risotto while another person looks on
Albisu (right) in 2010, making risotto
Born1974 or 1975 (age 49–50)
Fairfax, Virginia, U.S.[1]
EducationGeorge Mason University, Le Cordon Bleu
Culinary career
Current restaurant(s)
    • Taco Bamba (2013 – present)
Previous restaurant(s)
    • Del Campo (2013 – 2018)
    • Poca Madre (2018 – 2020)
Award(s) won
    • Chef of the year, Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington (2015)
    • Semifinalist, James Beard Foundation Award for best chef, Mid-Atlantic region (2016 and 2020)

Victor Albisu (born 1974 or 1975[2]) is an American chef and restaurateur. He has created fine-dining Latin American restaurants Del Campo and Poca Madre in D.C. and the fast-casual chain of taquerias Taco Bamba, featuring traditional as well as inventive house-special tacos often influenced by other culinary traditions. Opened in 2013 in the Falls Church, Virginia, shopping center where Albisu's mother has a Latin market, as of June 2024 Taco Bamba has 15 locations in the D.C. area and nearby states. In 2015, the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington named Albisu chef of the year, and in 2016 and 2020, he was a semifinalist for the James Beard Foundation Award for best chef in the Mid-Atlantic region.

Early life and education

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Albisu was born to a Cuban father and Peruvian mother; his grandfather was a baker in Cuba.[1] Albisu grew up in Falls Church[2] and Annandale, Virginia, and worked at his mother Rosa Susinski's nearby Latin market.[3][4] He attended Annandale High School,[5] then George Mason University in Virginia, graduating in 1999 with a bachelor's degree in politics and international relations.[6] He later attended Le Cordon Bleu in Paris.[7]

Career

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After college, Albisu worked in international development before becoming a chef.[8]

Fine dining

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In December 2007, Albisu became chef de cuisine,[9] then later executive chef at BLT Steak, a steakhouse in Washington, D.C. popular with the Obama family.[10] Albisu also cooked at the White House for the Obamas, and previously for George W. Bush.[11] In 2011, he won a competition hosted by Eater in honor of the Obamas’ love of burgers, preparing a Kobe beef burger with cheddar, ketchup and wild ramp dijon mustard, nods to Michelle Obama's preference for Kobe beef and Barack Obama's taste for spicy mustard and spicy greens.[12] The dish was later added to the BLT Steal menu.[13]

Albisu left BLT Steak in 2012 to start his own restaurants[14] and in 2013, he opened Del Campo, an upscale South American grill in the Chinatown neighborhood of D.C. Esquire named it to a list of best new restaurants in the country, with critic John Mariani praising Albisu's "phenomenal cooking".[15] A review in Condé Nast Traveler said, "D.C. is notoriously plagued by mediocre steakhouses, but this Argentine-style parilla in the Penn Quarter ain’t one of them,"[16] commending the South American wines on offer, the Peruvian fish dishes like ceviche, as well as the "toothsome" of roast meats with chimichurri and salsa.[16] In The Washington Post, Tom Sietsema gave the restaurant two-and-a-half stars, indicating good-to-excellent.[17] In 2015, the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington named him chef of the year,[18] and in 2016, Albisu was a semifinalist for the James Beard Foundation Award for best chef in the Mid-Atlantic region.[19]

In 2018, Albisu converted Del Campo into an upscale Mexican restaurant called Poca Madre.[20] In 2019, Sietsema listed Poca Madre at number six of the 10 best restaurants in D.C., highlighting "game-changer" dishes centered on vegetables like charred cabbage with mole and oxtail jam, or mango with chile, lime and charred habanero oil in ceviche.[21] In 2020, Albisu was again a semifinalist for the James Beard Foundation Award for best chef, Mid-Atlantic region.[22]

Poca Madre closed on March 16, 2020, when D.C. implemented a dine-in moratorium due to the COVID-19 pandemic; the restaurant did not reopen, closing permanently in September 2020.[23][24]

Taco Bamba

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A Taco Bamba location in Springfield, Virginia, in October 2024

In June 2013, Albisu opened Taco Bamba,[25] a fast-casual taqueria in the Falls Church, Virginia shopping center with his mother's market, Plaza Latina.[26] His mother and stepfather Bill Susinski were cofounders with Albisu.[27] Named for Peruvian slang for "inauthentic",[28] Taco Bamba offered both traditional tacos (carne asada, barbacoa, birria) and more inventive versions, like fried tilapia with squid ink aioli.[29] Esquire called Taco Bamba “some of the best tacos on the East Coast.”[30] In September 2016, Albisu opened a second location in Vienna, Virginia.[31] Washingtonian magazine described the Vienna menu as a “love letter to Northern Virginia”, with a “7 Corners Shrimp” taco honoring Eden Center’s hub of Vietnamese restaurants and “Bulgogi Bullfight” for the Koreatown neighborhood of Annandale, Virginia, Albisu's hometown.[28]

When the COVID-19 pandemic began in March 2020, Taco Bamba had five locations, with half of revenue coming from dine-in customers.[32] As indoor dining restrictions were imposed, Albisu laid off 100 people and closed the D.C. location,[32] which was adjacent to Poca Madre. He converted the four Virginia locations to takeout-only, then introduced delivery service, which helped keep more staff employed.[33] By the end of April 2020, Albisu said sales had almost returned to pre-pandemic levels though the dining rooms remained empty.[33]

In 2021, Investors Management Corporation, parent company to the restaurant chain Golden Corral,[34] acquired a stake in the business with the goal of creating a national chain.[5] As of June 2024, Taco Bamba has 15 locations,[35] in the D.C. area as well as Richmond, Virginia,[36] Raleigh, North Carolina,[37] and Nashville, Tennessee.[38] These locations offer locally inflected dishes like barbecue pork tacos and pimiento cheese empanadas.[38][37][36]

Other activities

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In 2015, Albisu appeared on the Food Network’s competition show Beat Bobby Flay.[39] Albisu bested the celebrity chef with a dish of steak and eggs.[40]

Albisu has worked with the aid organizations CARE[41] and World Central Kitchen.[42] At World Central Kitchen he was a member of the board.[43]

Awards

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Personal life

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Albisu is married and has two sons.[1][8]

References

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  1. ^ a b c Rothstein, Betsy (December 9, 2008). "Chef 101 With Victor Albisu of BLT Steak". The Hill. Retrieved October 5, 2024.
  2. ^ a b Sietsema, Tom (May 24, 2023). "At Del Campo, a reimagined tour of South America, noodles included". Washington Post. Archived from the original on November 24, 2020. Retrieved August 31, 2024.
  3. ^ Frederick, Missy (May 9, 2014). "Taco Bamba, a Mother/Son Affair; STK Shenanigans". Eater DC. Archived from the original on September 7, 2024. Retrieved August 31, 2024.
  4. ^ Miles, Vernon (June 15, 2021). "For Taco Bamba owner, newly announced Landmark location is a homecoming". ALXnow. Archived from the original on September 1, 2024. Retrieved August 31, 2024.
  5. ^ a b Sernovitz, Daniel J. (November 5, 2021). "Exclusive: Taco Bamba brings on partner, plots nationwide expansion". Washington Business Journal. Archived from the original on September 1, 2024. Retrieved August 31, 2024.
  6. ^ Johnson, Greg (June 1, 2023). "Mason alumnus chef influences region's culture through his restaurants". Costello College of Business. Archived from the original on June 28, 2023. Retrieved August 31, 2024.
  7. ^ Sargent, Stephanie (June 24, 2024). "Taco Bamba founder Chef Victor Albisu's journey to Nashville's culinary scene". The News. Archived from the original on September 7, 2024. Retrieved August 31, 2024.
  8. ^ a b Van Zandt, Emily (March 23, 2017). "Victor Albisu". Washington Business Journal. Archived from the original on August 1, 2021. Retrieved September 1, 2024.
  9. ^ Oczypok, Kate (May 7, 2008). "BLT Steak carves its niche". The Hill.
  10. ^ Sidman, Jessica (July 9, 2024). "BLT Steak Has Closed in DC". Washingtonian. Archived from the original on August 31, 2024. Retrieved August 31, 2024.
  11. ^ Steinhauer, Jennifer (December 14, 2018). "Trump Kicks Away Obama Traditions Even at the Dinner Table". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Archived from the original on November 25, 2022. Retrieved September 1, 2024.
  12. ^ McKeever, Amy (April 27, 2011). "Chefs Todd Gray, Victor Albisu And Brian McBride Compete In Eater DC's Obama Burger Challenge". Eater DC. Archived from the original on March 3, 2024. Retrieved September 1, 2024.
  13. ^ McKeever, Amy (October 31, 2011). "BLT Steak Launches a Rotating Board of Political Burgers". Eater DC. Retrieved September 7, 2024.
  14. ^ McKeever, Amy (March 6, 2012). "Executive Chef Victor Albisu Leaves BLT Steak". Eater DC. Archived from the original on September 27, 2023. Retrieved August 31, 2024.
  15. ^ Carman, Tim (December 3, 2021). "How Del Campo made Esquire's list of America's best new restaurants". Washington Post. ISSN 0190-8286. Retrieved August 31, 2024.
  16. ^ a b "Review: Del Campo". Condé Nast Traveler. Archived from the original on January 30, 2023. Retrieved August 31, 2024.
  17. ^ Sietsema, Tom (May 18, 2023). "Tom Sietsema: Del Campo offers smoke, fire and flavor". Washington Post. ISSN 0190-8286. Retrieved August 31, 2024.
  18. ^ a b Hiatt, Gabe (December 7, 2018). "How D.C.'s Mexican Food Mad Scientist Makes a Ramen Taco Work". Eater DC. Archived from the original on September 7, 2024. Retrieved August 31, 2024.
  19. ^ Frederick, Missy (February 17, 2016). "Kinship and The Dabney Are Among This Year's James Beard Award Semifinalists". Eater DC. Archived from the original on September 7, 2024. Retrieved September 1, 2024.
  20. ^ Mitchell, Travis (June 18, 2018). "First Look: Chef Victor Albisu Goes Upscale With Mexican-Inspired Poca Madre". DCist. Archived from the original on August 31, 2024. Retrieved August 31, 2024.
  21. ^ Sietsema, Tom (October 10, 2019). "Review | Poca Madre starts to sparkle". Washington Post. ISSN 0190-8286. Archived from the original on October 18, 2022. Retrieved September 1, 2024.
  22. ^ a b "These 21 D.C.-Area Restaurants And Chefs Are James Beard Semifinalists". DCist. Archived from the original on September 7, 2024. Retrieved August 31, 2024.
  23. ^ Sullivan, Jenny (April 19, 2021). ""We've All Been Through It This Year"". Arlington Magazine. Archived from the original on September 7, 2024. Retrieved August 31, 2024.
  24. ^ Hiatt, Gabe (September 8, 2020). "Inventive Mexican Restaurant Poca Madre Has Permanently Closed in Penn Quarter". Eater DC. Archived from the original on February 29, 2024. Retrieved September 1, 2024.
  25. ^ Sietsema, Tom (December 3, 2021). "It's Taco Bamba time: Victor Albisu's Falls Church taqueria opens June 17". Washington Post. ISSN 0190-8286. Retrieved September 1, 2024.
  26. ^ Gutierrez-Jones, Jackie (March 1, 2024). "A Bastion of Pimento Cheese Empanadas and Catfish Tacos Arrives in Green Hills". Eater Nashville. Archived from the original on September 7, 2024. Retrieved August 31, 2024.
  27. ^ Jennings, Lisa (November 8, 2021). "Taco Bamba plots national growth with Investors Management Corp. partnership". Nation's Restaurant News. Archived from the original on December 5, 2023. Retrieved September 7, 2024.
  28. ^ a b Spiegel, Anna (January 5, 2017). "The New Taco Bamba Is a Love Letter to Northern Virginia". Washingtonian. Archived from the original on May 20, 2024. Retrieved September 1, 2024.
  29. ^ Poster, Leslie (July 24, 2013). "Restaurant Spotlight: Taco Bamba". Falls Church News-Press Online. Archived from the original on September 7, 2024. Retrieved September 7, 2024.
  30. ^ Erickson, Nate (April 24, 2018). "The Gringa Will Be the Best Taco You Ever Eat". Esquire. Archived from the original on September 1, 2024. Retrieved September 1, 2024.
  31. ^ Carman, Tim (December 2, 2021). "The first 100 customers at the new Taco Bamba receive free tacos for a year". Washington Post. ISSN 0190-8286. Archived from the original on October 9, 2020. Retrieved September 1, 2024.
  32. ^ a b Lalley, Heather (April 26, 2020). "Emerging chains flip from growth mode to survival". Restaurant Business. Archived from the original on September 7, 2024. Retrieved September 1, 2024.
  33. ^ a b Feldman, Jess (April 27, 2020). "Table for None: 'It's very surreal' says Victor Albisu of NoVA's Taco Bamba". Northern Virginia Magazine. Archived from the original on September 7, 2024. Retrieved September 1, 2024.
  34. ^ Lalley, Heather (November 9, 2021). "Golden Corral parent partners to expand Taco Bamba". Restaurant Business. Archived from the original on November 28, 2023. Retrieved September 1, 2024.
  35. ^ Dickerson, Trevor (June 3, 2024). "Taco Bamba set to open first Richmond location at Willow Lawn Tuesday". RVAHub. Archived from the original on September 7, 2024. Retrieved August 31, 2024.
  36. ^ a b Peifer, Karri (May 30, 2024). "Taco Bamba's first Richmond location opens June 4". Axios.
  37. ^ a b Jackson, Drew (August 17, 2023). "Popular DC-based taco shop comes to Raleigh. What to know about the opening". Raleigh News & Observer.
  38. ^ a b Gutierrez-Jones, Jackie (March 1, 2024). "A Bastion of Pimento Cheese Empanadas and Catfish Tacos Arrives in Green Hills". Eater Nashville. Archived from the original on September 7, 2024. Retrieved September 5, 2024.
  39. ^ Spiegel, Anna (January 15, 2015). "Watch Del Campo's Victor Albisu On "Beat Bobby Flay" Thursday". Washingtonian. Archived from the original on September 7, 2024. Retrieved September 7, 2024.
  40. ^ "7 of the Best Breakfast Spots In DC". Washingtonian. May 20, 2016. Archived from the original on September 7, 2024. Retrieved September 7, 2024.
  41. ^ "World Class: Celebrity Chefs Aren't the Only Global Do-Gooders". Washington City Paper. December 3, 2015. Archived from the original on September 26, 2023. Retrieved September 7, 2024.
  42. ^ Hayes, Laura (March 6, 2017). "World Central Kitchen Mobilizes Chefs to Tackle Global Hunger". Washington City Paper. Archived from the original on December 5, 2023. Retrieved September 7, 2024.
  43. ^ Gans, Stefanie (September 7, 2017). "Victor Albisu is back from Houston and ready to open Springfield's Taco Bamba". Northern Virginia Magazine. Archived from the original on September 7, 2024. Retrieved September 7, 2024.
  44. ^ "Victor Albisu". James Beard Foundation. Archived from the original on December 2, 2023. Retrieved August 31, 2024.
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